Announcing: Starline 2500 decals!!!!!!!!!!
Moderators: mjwest, Albiegamer
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Bolo_MK_XL
- Captain
- Posts: 835
- Joined: Tue Jan 16, 2007 10:00 pm
- Location: North Carolina
Jim -
We're running a couple of days behind with the placement guides for those (yours was essentially a "pre-order" from before we officially announced the product).
If you want to hold off on applying any that you aren't positive on intended placement, we should have pdf files of the guides to you by mid-week. I am working on them tonight and tomorrow. Odds-on you'll figure it all out just fine though.
For the most part, the markings are all business as-usual. The only place things got different are with the windows and some of the engineering hatch stuff. We also added photon markings, as those just didn't seem to survive casting.
We're running a couple of days behind with the placement guides for those (yours was essentially a "pre-order" from before we officially announced the product).
If you want to hold off on applying any that you aren't positive on intended placement, we should have pdf files of the guides to you by mid-week. I am working on them tonight and tomorrow. Odds-on you'll figure it all out just fine though.
For the most part, the markings are all business as-usual. The only place things got different are with the windows and some of the engineering hatch stuff. We also added photon markings, as those just didn't seem to survive casting.
Has anyone suggested making decals for dice in the colors (and perhaps with a representative ship shadow) of the various empires? A decal could be affixed to each side of a die.
Wooden cubes with numbers printed/painted on them would work better than dice with the pip indentations, but either could work. Obviously, there would have to be various sizes for the different sizes of dice cubes.
There has been discussion about how expensive sets of empire-specific dice would be. Could stickers be an option?
Wooden cubes with numbers printed/painted on them would work better than dice with the pip indentations, but either could work. Obviously, there would have to be various sizes for the different sizes of dice cubes.
There has been discussion about how expensive sets of empire-specific dice would be. Could stickers be an option?
Mike
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Sandpaper gets the job done, but makes for a lot of friction.
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Sandpaper gets the job done, but makes for a lot of friction.
Happy to announce that we have completed the final decal set for the Federation ships currently available in Starline 2500, the Manta Ray-class NCF new fast cruiser. That set is available as an individual sheet, as the mini itself is not in any box set at this time.
We also offer special decals for any kit-bashed versions of the Two Moons-class DDF fast destroyer and the classic Franz Joseph ships (Sc, DD, Tug) that folks might make for themselves.
With the addition of the NCF, our product line associated to Starline 2500 is complete. We'll add sets for new ships, like the BB and CB, as the miniatures are released.
We are also costing-out options for expanding the product lines to include Starline 2400 and empires other than the Federation for both SL2400 and SL2500.
We also offer special decals for any kit-bashed versions of the Two Moons-class DDF fast destroyer and the classic Franz Joseph ships (Sc, DD, Tug) that folks might make for themselves.
With the addition of the NCF, our product line associated to Starline 2500 is complete. We'll add sets for new ships, like the BB and CB, as the miniatures are released.
We are also costing-out options for expanding the product lines to include Starline 2400 and empires other than the Federation for both SL2400 and SL2500.
Just wanted to add a note that we updated our website to include a picture and notes to try and explain to folks that SFU ships do not have a leading zero before their NCC number. (e.g. NCC-301 U.S.S. Burke is not NCC-0301 U.S.S. Burke).
We've had orders where folks included leading-zeros, due to directly copy-pasting from the official NCC-number list (which has leading-zeros as a sorting-aid in its source spreadsheet). We point folks to the official list, but needed to explain that they need to edit the data from the list, in their orders to us.
We'll print whatever people want (within reason), but want to make sure folks understand that the games' cover-art, etc., will never show the leading zeros and our "default mode" is the same. Having to ask the question "Do you really want the leading zeros?" repeatedly is slowing things down for all involved.
We've had orders where folks included leading-zeros, due to directly copy-pasting from the official NCC-number list (which has leading-zeros as a sorting-aid in its source spreadsheet). We point folks to the official list, but needed to explain that they need to edit the data from the list, in their orders to us.
We'll print whatever people want (within reason), but want to make sure folks understand that the games' cover-art, etc., will never show the leading zeros and our "default mode" is the same. Having to ask the question "Do you really want the leading zeros?" repeatedly is slowing things down for all involved.
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Jiraiya1969
- Lieutenant JG
- Posts: 91
- Joined: Thu May 17, 2007 1:39 pm
Klingon decals and 2500 Klingon hull plating
Once the Klingon decals are produced, I wonder how they wil set on the C7s, D7s and D5s and the 'wing' hull plating?
Wil the decals just have to be applied to smooth portions, our can it deal with those types of crevases, even after usicrong Micro Set and Micro Sol?
Thoughts?
J69
Wil the decals just have to be applied to smooth portions, our can it deal with those types of crevases, even after usicrong Micro Set and Micro Sol?
Thoughts?
J69
We don't like to create extra work and hassles for anybody, least of all ourselves. We're minis painters too.
When Klingon decals happen, they will be sized and designed to work with the SL2500 minis' unique features, like the hull plating.
On the Fed ships, it was unavoidable to have names and numbers spanning gaps between "plates" on the saucer, due to the grid pattern. For the Klingons, we can work the designs to make them fit all on a "flat".
Until we work out the needed printing technology, we're not doing any active design work on the Klingons. We are thinking hard thoughts on them though.
When Klingon decals happen, they will be sized and designed to work with the SL2500 minis' unique features, like the hull plating.
On the Fed ships, it was unavoidable to have names and numbers spanning gaps between "plates" on the saucer, due to the grid pattern. For the Klingons, we can work the designs to make them fit all on a "flat".
Until we work out the needed printing technology, we're not doing any active design work on the Klingons. We are thinking hard thoughts on them though.
Re: Klingon decals and 2500 Klingon hull plating
FWIT... I have used Micro-Sol on some o our Federation decals and they conform to the hull plating / grooves of the Federation saucers quite niely.Jiraiya1969 wrote:Once the Klingon decals are produced, I wonder how they wil set on the C7s, D7s and D5s and the 'wing' hull plating?
Wil the decals just have to be applied to smooth portions, our can it deal with those types of crevases, even after usicrong Micro Set and Micro Sol?
Thoughts?
J69
I can't imagine tehm being any different on the Klingon wings.
Commander, Battlegroup Murfreesboro
Department Head, ACTASF
Department Head, ACTASF
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Jiraiya1969
- Lieutenant JG
- Posts: 91
- Joined: Thu May 17, 2007 1:39 pm
Fed decals and the plastic socket for the base
It's been my experience that if you try to glue this socket onto anything other than bare metal, that it won't bind properly.
I noticed that most of the minis with engineering hulls (CA, CS, BC and DN specifically, and maybe some others), have areas to which decals need to be applied that is directly in the path of where this socket needs to be affixed.
Is this a potential problem? How have others gotten around this?
Thx,
J69
I noticed that most of the minis with engineering hulls (CA, CS, BC and DN specifically, and maybe some others), have areas to which decals need to be applied that is directly in the path of where this socket needs to be affixed.
Is this a potential problem? How have others gotten around this?
Thx,
J69
We note on our placement guides where people should cut-away portions of the decal to allow for the stand socket. Easy to do, since the decal has to be cut out from the sheet anyways; just moving the knife over a couple millimeters.
We include the full marking (including the one that tries to be where Mongoose put the stand hole) in case someone decides to fill the stand hole and make a display model out of the mini (for an ornament, etc.)
We include the full marking (including the one that tries to be where Mongoose put the stand hole) in case someone decides to fill the stand hole and make a display model out of the mini (for an ornament, etc.)